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The South of Croatia - 16/11/2019

A week of sailing from Dubrovnik

Aci Dubrovnik Marina

CROATIA: Dubrovnik – Dubrovnik.

SATURDAY, day 1. From Marina ACI Dubrovnik to Kobas (south of the Peljesac peninsula)

We set sail from the marina at around 4:30 p.m. After about 4 hours of sailing, we arrived at Kobas, a small bay located on the port side at the entrance to Ston Canal, with a walled city at the far end:

Ston aerial view

Kobas is well sheltered from almost all winds and has several places to moor: the docks of restaurants and konobas, as well as anchoring options.

Moored at Kobas

We dined at GASTROMARE restaurant, which was a veritable experience. It offers an interesting but never-ending gourmet sampling menu. Toni, the owner, received us and looked after us very kindly. As a curious nice touch, the bill for the gourmet dinner includes a delicious breakfast the next morning. As a more affordable alternative, we recommend the nearby Konoba LUKAS.

Konoba Lukas (Kobas)

GASTROMARE restaurant, in Kobas.

SUNDAY, day 2

We set sail from Kobas at around 10:00 AM, headed for POLACE, on the north-western tip of MLJET Island.

Anchoring was not very sheltered in this area, and there was a fairly strong wind, so we headed to ZAKLOPATICA, in the north of the island of LASTOVO.

The bay of Zaklopatica is very sheltered, and in addition to its ample anchoring area, several restaurants (Konobas) offer free mooring for customers on their docks. Purely by chance, we docked at the pier of Konoba TRITON, where we were taken care of very kindly by its owner.


We dined very well on grilled fish.


We devoted Monday to circumnavigate the western parts of Lastovo, which is, all of it, a Natural Park. The area is wondrous; PASADUR, the populated western area, can be accessed from the north and south, but a fixed bridge separates both parts. We sailed to the southern part, anchoring in crystalline waters by an old World War II submarine hangar.

U-boot submarine hangar (Lastovo)

In the afternoon, before continuing our route, we visited UBLE, where there is a petrol station (and water) and quite a well-stocked supermarket.

After buying tobacco and alcohol (what we were low on), we sailed on to Portoroz (Porto Rosso), also known as Skrivena Luka, in the south of the island.

There Konoba PORTOROZ offers a dock (for a fee, but very affordable) as an alternative to a huge anchoring area, with the advantage that it provides water and electricity.

This charming restaurant is good and not too expensive. The showers and toilets are excellent.

Portoroz restaurant

TUESDAY, day 4

On Tuesday our destination was Korcula, MARINA ACI


We had booked our mooring beforehand, through the Internet. The marina ACI was packed.

On the way we stopped in a beautiful cove with a sandy beach, at the south-eastern point of the island of Korcula.

The town is lovely, and it offers dozens of konobas and bars where you can rest and restore your energy.


We dined well and cheaply in MORSKI KONJIC, restaurant, on the terrace.

From Korcula we returned to the south, again to POLACE (Mljet). This time we did find a wonderful and sheltered anchoring area. After spending the afternoon lazing around, we set off to the sheltered village, mooring at the dock of SPONGA konoba, where they have live fish and seafood of the highest quality.

Konoba Sponga, Polace (Mljet)

While we were having dinner at the stern of our boat, a strong starboard wind came up, so we had a bit of a rough night.

Those who anchored at the northern end of the cove made a better choice, as they enjoyed a calm night.

FRIDAY, day 6

On Thursday we sailed along all of the north part of the island of MLJET, and made a wonderful discovery in the far south-eastern point of the island: SAPLUNARA.

This is a large cove that is very sheltered, except from the rare southerly winds. It has two sandy beaches.

Saplunara cove ( Mljet island )

Konoba KOD ANTE offers free buoys to its customers. We strongly recommend it. It is one of the best in Croatia. Ivo, its owner, grills whole lobsters that are delicious, not to forget a delectable spaghetti with scampi. But above all Ivo and his wife are charming and welcoming. The cove also has a supermarket, in case you need to restock on something.

Anchored in Saplunara (Mijet)

The boats moored to their buoys. A little dock to go ashore.

Konoba Kod Ante, Saplunara ( Mljet )

Terrace of KOD ANTE, konoba, on the ground floor of the new PINETREE hotel.

FRIDAY, day 7

It’s already Friday and it’s time to return to base. We set off at around 10 AM, to have time to sail to the city of Dubrovnik and admire its imposing walls from the sea.

Old port of Dubrovnik

On the way we had time to anchor for quite a while in a beautiful cove in the south of Lopud, only a few hours away from the base. It has a restaurant on the beach. It can be a good option to spend the last day if you don’t wish to go to Dubrovnik.

Cove south of Lopud

Old town of Dubrovnik.